Safaga Tobya Kebir

Safaga · Red Sea Governorate · Egypt

Tobya Kebir is the larger of two reef structures in Safaga Bay that epitomise what makes this Egyptian port a quieter alternative to Hurghada's heavily-dived reefs. The reef rises from the sandy bay floor to within three metres of the surface, its plateau a garden of hard corals descending on all sides to slopes richly decorated with soft corals and gorgonians. The boat moored in the lee of the reef, and I descended into characteristic Safaga clarity. Visibility exceeded thirty metres, the entire reef visible from the surface as a dark oval surrounded by turquoise water deepening to blue. The reef top was alive with anthias, pink and orange fish swarming in clouds so dense they occasionally obscured the coral beneath. I drifted along the eastern slope at fifteen metres where the soft coral coverage was most impressive. Dendronephthya in reds, pinks, and purples cascaded down the reef face, translucent branches extended into the mild current for plankton capture. Sea fans spread between the soft coral clusters, producing the saturated beauty that makes Red Sea diving distinctive. A green turtle grazed on the reef top, methodically working a patch of algae. It lifted its head at my approach, assessed the threat as minimal, and returned to feeding. Two more turtles rested on sand patches at the reef base. The sandy surroundings held their own interest. A crocodilefish lay motionless at twenty metres, its camouflage so effective I nearly missed it. A spotted eagle ray glided across the sand between the reef and its smaller sister structure, Tobya Sughayer, visible as a shadow in the distance. Safaga's diving culture is refreshingly focused. The operators tend to be small, professional outfits that have chosen this town because it has not become another Hurghada. Dive boats carry smaller groups, reefs see fewer visitors, and the marine life behaves with the calm confidence of animals observed rather than harassed.