Middle Reef Safaga

Safaga · Red Sea Governorate · Egypt

Middle Reef sits at the heart of Safaga Bay like a trio of underwater skyscrapers rising from a sandy desert floor. Three distinct coral pinnacles, separated by channels of white sand at 20 to 25 metres depth, create a concentrated reef ecosystem in miniature. Everything a diver hopes to find on a Red Sea reef is compressed into these three blocks, making Middle Reef one of Safaga's most efficient and rewarding dive sites. The largest pinnacle rises from 25 metres to within 3 metres of the surface, its crown a garden of fire coral bathed in sunlight. Descending along its flanks, the structure is honeycombed with overhangs and crevices hosting a staggering density of marine life. Glassfish congregate in such numbers that they form shimmering silver curtains, parting as divers enter the overhangs and closing behind them. Lionfish position themselves at the edges, picking off individuals with precision strikes. Octopuses are Middle Reef's most charismatic residents. The pinnacle structure provides an ideal habitat of rocky crevices and sandy hunting grounds, and on a typical dive, three or four individuals can be spotted in various states of activity. Some rest in dens with only their eyes visible, while others flow across the reef surface in their liquid way, changing colour and texture as they cross from coral to sand. The channels between pinnacles are worth the swim across open sand. Crocodilefish flatten themselves against the bottom in excellent camouflage, eagle rays occasionally glide across the sand, and the second and third pinnacles each have their own character. The middle block has the best soft coral growth, with orange and red Dendronephthya colonies decorating the overhangs. The smallest pinnacle is a favourite for giant moray eels, with several large specimens occupying permanent dens. Safaga's distance from Hurghada's mass tourism means Middle Reef is often dived with only one or two boats present. The underwater atmosphere is noticeably calmer, fish behaviour is less disturbed, and the diving pace is more relaxed. For those willing to drive an hour past Hurghada, Safaga rewards with Red Sea diving as it was before the crowds arrived.